Climbing The Steps of Fushimi Inari

           A couple weeks ago I journeyed to Kyoto to visit the Fushimi Inari Shrine. If you've seen Memoirs of a Geisha than this shrine might be familiar to you. And if you haven't, then you probably have no idea what the heck I'm talking about. Let's remedy that!

This is the scene where a young Sayuri is running through the torii gates at Fushimi Inari 

    The Fushimi Inari Shrine is dedicated to Inari the goddess of prosperity, rice, and industry. She also happens to be the patron deity of merchants and farmers. You can say that she's rather popular, the Fushimi Inari Shrine alone has more than 32,000 sub-shrines throughout Japan.

Main Gate at Fushimi Inari

     When I visited it was a perfect day sunny and cool like the autumn weather back home. And I can say that from the moment we arrived to Fushimi Inari station it was like stepping back in time. Almost every temple I've visited thus far has had this aura of the past but in Fushimi Inari the air was different.

The 狐 (fox) messengers of Inari

     Maybe it was the size, the small stolen glances of  the Miko and priests between the shrine doors, a quick flash of a red hakama, or the distant echo of a Buddhist chant, or the snarling faces of a hundred foxes jaws lulling open. Or perhaps it was it's utter foreignness to me, not only in language but in customs, practices, and religion. Everything was tainted by my distance with an air of mystery.  

As we climbed the orange torii gates wound up the side of the mountain and the light seeping in from the gaps made it seem like I was walking in the fiery belly of an old and giant snake.  The whole way up an underlying tranquility pervaded everything and in its infectious and almost jarring nature I found myself stopping and attempting to cast out my senses. Running fingers over the cold stone of shrines, the shined and sometimes splintered wood of the gates, hearing the dull gong and high twinkle of temple bells, and breathing in deep the heady mixture of temple incense and mountain air. It seemed like we were all propelled forward, old and young, singular and in groups. Feet moving of their own accord, stair after stair in a destination-less procession up the mountain.

     Small individual shrines sat in clusters on the edge of the main trail, like villages for the tiny foxes that guarded them. At times when I was snapping pictures it almost felt like they were watching me, hungry with their open mouths and tiny snake silted eyes. Waiting to gobble up offerings and prayers and in return grant prosperity. 

And as I reached the top and saw the last shrine surrounded by a hundred mirrored miniatures, I felt a near chill. Like I had walked into to an abandoned city, undisturbed and uninvited. Still, I felt draw there, drawn to put a hundred yen coin in the mouth of the kitsune and grab for myself a piece of good fortune. Climbing the steps of Fushimi Inari one realizes what it takes to receive prosperity, repetition, motivation and an audacity to disturb something in yourself that you never have before.

Osaka Adventures: Owl Cafe フクロの店

       You've all probably heard something about the animal themed cafes here in Japan. But before I came to Japan  I had found a Buzzfeed article, about Owl Cafes. The article had mentioned that there was one in Osaka. And it was right at that moment that I made the decision, I would not leave Japan until I found one! And find one I did. 
Well, maybe I didn't find it....
Maybe I got lost for a couple hours, gave up and happened to pass it on my walk of shame back to the station.
...Just maybe
     But don't worry if you're planning on a visit, the cafe is relatively easy to find (I just have the directional sense of a piece of toast). Take the Keihan train line to Tenmabashi Station, find the shopping district (a whole line of stores you can't miss it) and go straight!

You'll find a cute little shop like this!

     However, word to the wise walking straight into the shop lifting those white curtains and blinding all the owls isn't the best way to go about making an appointment. Simply open the door a little, yell "すみません” and a staff member will come and help you outside. Thankfully they also have an English menu, which explains the rules of the cafe and how to interact with the owls on the front. After a brief explanation your hour with owls begin!

     The owls differ depending on when you go, there were four owls total we were able to hold and pet. Besides  these ones, near the back of the cafe you can see other owls and take pictures next to them.  The shop owners are very friendly and will gladly take a picture for you, help you with the owls and tell you about them. Some of the smaller owls you can even have sit on your head (I passed on that one)!

This big boy was in the center of the room for everyone to visit with and pet

     Over all it was a nice time and experience, it isn't too pricey and would be a fun brunch outing. I'm not sure what kooky themed cafe I'll be hitting up next. I've heard that they have penguin bars in Japan. The search may begin yet again.

Living the dream.

Osaka Adventures: Shinsaibashi 心斎橋

           I can't say this enough: Kansai Gaidai is located in an awesome spot. Being literally an hour to an hour and a half train ride from a number of places means that my weekends are jammed packed with exploration. For my first official weekend since school a bunch of friends and I decided to check out Shinsaibashi. 

     Shinsaibashi is a shopping district in Osaka. It spans on for blocks in an open air mall type fashion, filled with food stalls, clothing shops, Pachinko parlors, and the like. They also have all the high class name brand stores like Gucci, Chanel, Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, and Versace (not that I could even afford to window shop in  any of those stores). There is also a ton of arcades, restaurants, clothing shops, shoe stores, electronics, and even massage parlors and palm readers. If you cant find a store dedicated to what you want in Shinsaibashi than it probably doesn't exist! .   

The Famous Glico Man in Dōtonbori

For me, the whole experience was a tad bit overwhelming. My senses buzzed with different stimuli, the bells and whistles of the Pachinko machines, the calls from vendors, glowing sign after glowing sign. My head spinning between taking in my surroundings and watching where I was going, trying many times unsuccessfully to not bump into the masses of other shoppers. We went into various shops, from fashionable clothing stores, 100 yen shops, to the ground floor of Tsutaya, covered with Manga and Anime merchandise. We also found a three story arcade with Purikura!
     For all of you who don't know, Purikura is a Japanese photo booth, that "enhances" your face while allowing you to add a variety of effects. They are really fun but the end result...can be a little shocking. For example, Purikura turned me into soul sucking void of uber cuteness (look into those cold empty eyes...look at them).

I am what nightmares are made of.

          Besides discovering my ability to be horrifyingly cute, I tried for the first time the Japanese's take on pizza. I am not a fan of pizza in the States (I know completely unamerican right?) so I had my doubts about Shakey's, an all you can eat pizza buffet akin to Cici's or Little Caesar's. However, their pizza was great! Who knew squid on pizza could taste so good? But my greatest discovery, a marvelous hidden gem deserving of the highest praises was dessert pizza. I could see a line slowly start to form at the buffet station, people hovering and grabbing returning with plates full of a strange looking thing. My friend kindly grabbed me a slice before they ran out and what followed after my first bite was a series of simultaneous epiphanies. 
Why didn't anyone think of this before? 
Why aren't there dessert pizzas on every menu in America? 
Plastered on billboards,
 Given on birthdays, holidays and anniversaries.
Covered in the morning section of the daily news!  
     Maybe I'm overstating here, because if you put dark chocolate and strawberries on anything you can be sure I will devour it.  Seriously America, dessert pizza. Look into it.

Isn't she pretty?

     For those who love shopping in any form, Shinsaibashi is the place to visit. As the day came to a close the streets got even more crowded.  People standing in groups, people passing out night club, karaoke, and food advertisements, and bustling in and out of stores. As I weaved my way in between the masses, past girls with their hair meticulously sculpted, and guys lighting up cigarettes smoke billowing above their heads in the cold. I felt a little lost and yet at ease, that I was just another face passing swiftly unrecognized amongst the idle chatter and city lights.

Kyoto Excursion

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     I had the opportunity to go to Kyoto during orientation week, an opportunity that I eagerly accepted! We were divided into groups and accompanied by Japanese Kansai Gaidai students. Luckily, Kyoto is only about an hour train ride from Hirakata-Shi Station, and relatively cheap as well. I've always thought of Kyoto as the land of the geisha, a hub of old Japan. I was more interested in shopping than hiking up a billion and one stairs to an old Buddhist temple. But my group had decided on going to Kiyomizu-dera and I wasn't going to be the Debbie Downer. So somewhat reluctantly I agreed, and I don't regret it. Japan has pushed me into doing things that I might not have tried elsewhere (good things don't worry). Just like I've only had a glimpse of Kyoto, I've only had a glimpse of Japan. And I'm constantly finding new things that inspire, amaze and surprise me. 

Another part of the temple

 

The pagoda of Kiyomizu-Dera was under construction

The old and new living in harmony is something Japan does marvelously well. And so far I've found the best demonstration of this wonderful harmony in Kyoto. It's a place where one moment you're here and the next you're some place else, suspended, and ethereal, in some sort of  transient limbo of time. You get lost in the wafting earthy smell of temple incense, the small winding streets crowded with shops and food stalls, the the hum of visitor's voices, snapping of cameras and feet on concrete steps. All heading forward up the Otawa Mountain towards Kiyomizu-dera, an Heian period Buddhist temple.     

Inside you can make an offering, ring the bell and say a prayer

     When we reached the temple I felt like a bystander. I watched a mother teach her son how to bow, she fixed his socked feet tucking them under his tiny legs and bent his head down to the floor beneath the Buddha statue, visitors drank and washed hands in the Otawa Waterfall for health, luck and longevity. And there was me, fumbling my way through, not knowing when to bow, to take off my shoes, to make an offering, or to pray. But the thing was, I was okay with it of just observing. That was what I loved the most about Kyoto. To me it was like a story book read to me by someone else, elegantly distant and hauntingly present.

Do you like my artsy natural lens flare?

Wifi Woes

           Coming to Japan I had this preconception that everything would be all futuristic, technologically advanced,  robots serving you your meals (that might be a little much). But come on their toilets have heated seats, food serving robots are not far behind. The last thing I thought I was going to have to worry about was something as simplistic as WiFi. There would be WiFi up the yingyang, I could probably update a status from atop Mt. Fuji for Pete's sake. Wrong-O! There is WiFi, but that WiFi is protected and ultimately unavailable much to my sad unprepared disappointment. You don't know how difficult it is for me to not be able to obsessively check the weather five times, or scroll through Facebook on my phone. (#firstworldproblems) However the most difficult thing is, without WiFi I can't update anyone or anything.       But don't let me scare you technology lovers, if you are coming to Japan you do have some options! You could rent/buy a Japanese cell phone from SoftBank or another carrier. This option is slightly less appealing if you are attached to your money. Second is purchasing a pocket WiFi. This is probably the best for those only planning a semester stay. The plan is good, its only a 100 dollar cancellation fee and depending on where and when you go you might be able to get a free tablet with your contract! I got my pretty red one at Edion, I recommend bringing a Japanese speaker with you though as they might not have an English speaker on staff.      But anyways this is my long winded way of telling you all the reason I've been delayed in updating! But now that I've officially been here over a week, have adjusted, and have WiFi, I can start regularly updating! I hope you look forward to my posts as much as I look forward to sharing my adventures with you!  \ (・∀・)/